The gourmet potato

Varsovie Warsaw Placki ziemniaczane. The name of these Polish-style potato pancakes seems impossible to remember. Yet you quickly get used to seeing it, because it features on the menus of milk bars, those Communist-era canteens that are being stylishly reinvented all over town. At the more upmarket spots, placki ziemniaczane are served as an accompaniment, particularly with game. There is also a sweet version, which has the same ingredientsgrated potato, egg and flourbut without the onion. They are sprinkled with sugar before eating.

Marari There is nothing bland about Kerala. A taste of potato masala, a stone’s throw from Marari beach, your head in the palm fronds, is a taste of freedom. The intense flavors come from the spices. In the pan, mustard seeds sizzle in the oil. Finely chopped onions join the dance with coriander, pepper, garam masala and Kashmiri powder. And a secret ingredient: kaloupilé, or curry leaf. As for the potatoes, they take on a sunny air, and an unsuspected freshness. The manager keeps an eye on things, and laughingly points out: “Curry leaf in India is like bay leaf in Paris.”

Aveyron Sébastien Bras found the inspiration for this dish in South America, where the sweet potato reigns supreme. It gave him the idea for a dessert made with this vegetable. In the end, because the plants brought back did not take to the Aveyron soil, he used ordinary potatoes instead. First, the potato is marinated for 24 hours in syrup, then dried on a mold that was created by the chef’s grandfather. The resulting wafer is filled with brown butter cream and coated with salted caramel. A truly delicious surprise.

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Le monde comme il va


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