Hempton,234

The Hamptons:
A bigger splash 

Hempton,234

Long Island débute dans la très urbaine New York et s’achève à Montauk, la très sauvage. Sur sa pointe orientale, qui pique vers l’océan,  les petites cités des Hamptons attirent nombre d’artistes, captivés par une nature libre et démesurée. 

1.

Architecture for art

Montauk Highway is a speedy way to reach the last village at the rugged tip of Long Island. But it’s worth lingering a bit at the Parrish Art Museum along the way, a long, barn-like building set among meadows and vineyards, designed by Herzog & de Meuron to catch the light. Light is indeed everywhere, orchestrated by the architects’ commitment to the environment and the works themselves, reflecting an obsession with water, sky and nature. The pure forms express the architects’ ideal of simplicity. Concerts and performances (including choreographer Jonah Bokaer’s popular show, through October 16) are scheduled throughout the year. “Nothing will have taken place but the place,” wrote Mallarmé. And this one alone is well worth seeing.

Parrish art Museum

279 Montauk Highway, Water Mill. Tél. +1 631 283 2118.

www.parrishart.org

2.

Montauk: dancing with the waves

It’s 7am, and Ditch Plains Beach is still partially shrouded in mist. Slender figures of surfers in their dark second-skin suits are heading toward the waves, their boards a profusion of colors. It’s calm, save for the sound of the sea. The sun gives the go-ahead and the ballet begins. Surf, spills, laughter and balance. It’s like a metaphor for all of Montauk. Everything is authentic. Preserved. Wary of trends and fashions. Athletic. You set off to catch a big fish, meeting up late for a casual dinner at the Inlet Seafood Restaurant, where it’s almost like dining aboard a ship. From the lighthouse, the endless blue stretches out as far as the eye can see to the horizon.

Inlet Seafood Restaurant 

541 East Lake Drive, Montauk. 
Tél. +1 631 668 4272.

www.inletseafood.com

3.

Robert Wilson’s creative think tank

The key word in this place unlike any other is “transmission.” Everything seems to embody Robert Wilson’s dream  of building a world commensurate with his desires. It is a place of reflection and creation. Human endeavor prevails over time, and the gardens are literally sculpted. Emerging and established artists in residence prepare avant-garde performances for the rest of the world in this highly  refined setting, among relics of civilizations past, rare flowers and majestic trees.

the Watermill Center

39 Water Mill Towd Rd, Water Mill. Tél. +1 631 726 4628.

www.watermillcenter.org

4.

Boho-chic Amagansett

Located just next to elegant East Hampton, Amagansett may have lost some of its soul with the plethora of prestigious but rather passé brands, but it still shows a degree of stalwart resistance and innovation. Everything here conveys styleforged by the mega personalities who’ve settled here, like trendsetter Lou Reed, who used to walk his dog Lolabelle in the area. Trendy shopping can be found at Rube, Tiina and the Lazy Point boutique, the latter one of the oldest and most talked about: each year, Claudja Bicalho and Mark Wilson take off to journey around the world, returning with Indian tanka coins, ebony masks from Africa and other finds. Mark makes furniture using driftwood and volcanic ash, Claudja creates bikinis and rings. New Yorkers flock here to explore the exclusive wonders.

Rube

156 Main St., Amagansett. Tél. +1 631 267 6117.

Tiina the store

216 Main St., Amagansett. Tél. +1 631 267 6200. 

www.tiinathestore.com

Lazy Point Variety

171 Main St., Amagansett. 
Tél. +1 631 604 1268.

www.lazypointvariety.com

5.

LongHouse calling

The vast gardens at LongHouse Reserve have been designed to exemplify an ideal of contemporary living. This is a place for meditation, where you can wander about amid simply displayed works of art that take you by surprise. They are by the likes of Yoko Ono, Buckminster Fuller and Willem de Kooning, the latter having settled here for good. Musician and artist Laurie Anderson is loyal to the place, and sometimes gives talks or performs. Her mesmerizing voice seems to resonate among the huge installations and over the fragile water lilies. “Now, can you imagine...?”  The tone, rhythm and gentle ambience at this secret spot in the forest are all conducive to contemplation.

LongHouse reserve

133 Hands Creek Rd, East Hampton. Tél. +1 631 329 3568.

www.longhouse.org

6.

Autumn screenings

The fairytale Bay Street Theater in Sag Harbor, with its legendary neon, and the brightly lit Southampton Regal Bay Cinema are both venues for the Hamptons International Film Festival (HIFF). Screenings also take place at Guild Hall and you just might spot Julianne Moore or Sharon Stone walk down the red carpet beneath the still-green trees. As Anne Chaisson, HIFF’s executive director, explains, luminaries like Michael Moore, Steven Spielberg and Spike Jonze have been presenting feature films and documentaries here in October for the past 24 years (October 6 to 10 in 2016). One of the most vibrant reasons for visiting the Hamptons in the fall.

Hamptons International Film Festival

Du 6 au 10.10.

www.hamptonsfilmfest.org

7.

Place of refuge Shelter Island

Is an island within an island. A magical ferry glides from one shore to the other, a mere four minutes’ distance, but you could spend days between the two, neither here nor there. The island is conducive to drifting about and getting lost. The houses are charming, the water in the bay is warm. Luxury hotel magnate André Balazs opened Sunset Beach hotel to catch the most beautiful of  sundowns. But the queen of this delightful stopover is Frenchwoman Marie Eiffel, who has left her mark on the place. Her shop is filled with unusual objects and clothing she designed herself, while her Market grocery and café with its dreamy deck is a great spot for breakfast. You feel you could live here for years and years.

sunset beach

35 Shore Rd, Shelter Island Heights. 
Tél. +1 631 749 2001.

www.sunsetbeachli.com

Marie Eiffel fashion

8 Grand Ave, Shelter Island Heights.
Tél. +1 631 749 0707.

www.marieeiffel.com

Marie Eiffel Market

184 N Ferry Rd, Shelter Island. 
Tél. +1 631 749 0003.

www.marieeiffelmarket.com

8.

Neon in the woods

Dan Flavin in Bridgehampton? De Kooning in the East Hampton hamlet of Springs? Pollock and Lee Krasner? No, this is not a floor at MoMA, but a walk in the woods, near the water. There’s a nearly invisible building beside the fields, with the colorful  vibrations of Dan Flavin’s neon lights. And there’s a small barn where Pollock had his studio, which looks as if he’ll be back at any moment. Fluorescence in the former, splatterings in the latter, which was used for such works as Lavender Mist and Autumn Rhythm. It’s worth spending some time in these houses, which may seem small yet appear quite huge with the sheer amount of genius stored up inside, as if the artists themselves were at home.

The Dan Flavin Art Institute

Corwith Ave off Main St., Bridgehampton.
Tél. +1 631 537 1476.

www.diaart.org/visit/visit

Pollock-Krasner House and Study Center 

830 Springs-Fireplace Rd, East Hampton. 
Tél. +1 631 324 4929.

www.stonybrook.edu/pkhouse

9.

Dolce vita American-style

Living is only natural, but it can also be something of an art, and the Hamptonians are experts at it. As they love renting extravagant homes for the season, Antonella B. opened a dream manor-style bed and breakfast. Draped in wisteria, the Baker House 1650 offers the sensation of staying in a central East Hampton house along with a creative breakfast, infinity pool and gigantic bedroom. The classic Palm restaurant located just opposite serves up its signature surf ’n’ turf combo of steak and lobster. Each village offers gourmet delights, like Pierre’s with its French cuisine, evening lounge and pastry shop in Bridgehampton, and the immutably charming American Hotel (with, miraculously, no TVs in the rooms) in Sag Harbor. The bar, the liveliest in the area at night, and the extensive menu make it  one of the best places for a celebration.

The Baker House 1650

181 Main St., East Hampton.
Tél. +1 631 324 4081. 

www.bakerhouse1650.com

The Palm Restaurant

94 Main St., East Hampton.
Tél. +1 631 324 0411. 

www.thepalm.com

Pierre’s

2468 Main St., Bridgehampton. 
Tél. +1 631 537 5110. 

www.pierresbridgehampton.com

THE AMERICAN HOTEL

49 Main St.,Sag Harbor.
Tél. +1 631 725 3535.

www.theamericanhotel.com

10.

The ocean tamed or unspoiled?

For those dreaming of a walk along the water’s edge, be aware that access permits are granted sparingly here. The dunes are protected, and rightly so, as these sandy peaks would collapse if they weren’t. The ocean belongs to everyone, but you have to choose between the private beaches offering shade, drinking water and burgers (Coopers Beach in Southampton or Main Beach in East Hampton) and the wilder beaches, which require quite a bit of walking given the lack of parking close by (except for residents). But the sound of the waves accompanies your trek to the sea, along with the bracing olfactory and visual shock of the vast salty expanse.

Topping Rose House

Behind its superb facade, this impressive white house built by Abraham  Topping Rose in 1842 houses a luxury hotel where refinement and environmental awareness meet. The quiet elegance of the place mirrors that of its current owners, Bill Campbellart lover, humanist and vice-president of the highly reputed Brooklyn Academy of Musicand Simon Critchell. The hotel offers the highest degree of comfort and modernity while displaying a real concern for environmental protection: for example, produce comes from the next-door garden, where rhubarb grows alongside herbs. Famous chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten was convinced, and recently joined the establishment. You almost feel like staying put in the gardens, the pool and your huge room, although elegant Bridgehampton is right there waiting to be explored.

Topping Rose house

Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton. 
Tél. +1 631 537 0870. 

www.toppingrosehouse.com

© «Fly’s Eye Dome», Buckminster Fuller & John Kuthik, 1998

© Dan Flavin / ADAGP, Paris 2016 107

© Michael Weber - Tim Street-Porter

Carnet d’adresses

Varsovie double page

Parrish art Museum

279 Montauk Highway, Water Mill. Tél. +1 631 283 2118.

www.parrishart.org

Inlet Seafood Restaurant 

541 East Lake Drive, Montauk. 
Tél. +1 631 668 4272.

www.inletseafood.com

the Watermill Center

39 Water Mill Towd Rd, Water Mill. Tél. +1 631 726 4628.

www.watermillcenter.org

Rube

156 Main St., Amagansett. Tél. +1 631 267 6117.

Tiina the store

216 Main St., Amagansett. Tél. +1 631 267 6200. 

www.tiinathestore.com

Lazy Point Variety

171 Main St., Amagansett. 
Tél. +1 631 604 1268.

www.lazypointvariety.com

LongHouse reserve

133 Hands Creek Rd, East Hampton. Tél. +1 631 329 3568.

www.longhouse.org

Hamptons International Film Festival

Du 6 au 10.10.

www.hamptonsfilmfest.org

sunset beach

35 Shore Rd, Shelter Island Heights. 
Tél. +1 631 749 2001.

www.sunsetbeachli.com

Marie Eiffel fashion

8 Grand Ave, Shelter Island Heights.
Tél. +1 631 749 0707.

www.marieeiffel.com

Marie Eiffel Market

184 N Ferry Rd, Shelter Island. 
Tél. +1 631 749 0003.

www.marieeiffelmarket.com

The Dan Flavin Art Institute

Corwith Ave off Main St., Bridgehampton.
Tél. +1 631 537 1476.

www.diaart.org/visit/visit

Pollock-Krasner House and Study Center 

830 Springs-Fireplace Rd, East Hampton. 
Tél. +1 631 324 4929.

www.stonybrook.edu/pkhouse

The Baker House 1650

181 Main St., East Hampton.
Tél. +1 631 324 4081. 

www.bakerhouse1650.com

The Palm Restaurant

94 Main St., East Hampton.
Tél. +1 631 324 0411. 

www.thepalm.com

Pierre’s

2468 Main St., Bridgehampton. 
Tél. +1 631 537 5110. 

www.pierresbridgehampton.com

THE AMERICAN HOTEL

49 Main St.,Sag Harbor.
Tél. +1 631 725 3535.

www.theamericanhotel.com

Topping Rose house

Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton. 
Tél. +1 631 537 0870. 

www.toppingrosehouse.com

Hôtel

Southampton Inn

A rare and savvy alternative for family accommodation. Tennis, pool and peace and quiet near the town center. Manager Dede is kindness itself and is a mine of knowledge about Southampton and the surrounding area.

91 Hill St., Southampton.
Tél. +1 631 283 6500.

www.southamptoninn.com

Shopping

Sylvester & Co. Modern General®

A perfectly curated selection of home accessories, from lamps to rugs, and delectable coffee.

103 Main St., Sag Harbor.
Tél. +1 631 725 5012.

www.sylvesterandco.com

Wyeth

Very, very high-end vintage Scandi design furniture.

3654 Montauk Hwy, Sagaponack.
Tél. +1 631 604 2103.

www.wyeth.nyc

Loaves & Fishes

Rent a house from Memorial Day to Labor Day, and shop at Loaves & Fishes.

50 Sagg Main Rd, Sagaponack.
Tél. +1 631 537 0555.

www.landffoodstore.com

The East Hampton Star

All the local news and listings, including the Saturday yard sales, where you can sometimes pick up a real treasure.

Déambuler

Channing Daughters Winery

Discover the Channing sisters’ vineyard and the sculptures in among the vines.

1927 Scuttlehole Rd, Bridgehampton.
Tél. +1 631 537 7224.

www.channingdaughters.com

Harbor Books

Every village has its own bookshop, like this one in Sag Harbor. Wow!

20 Main St., Sag Harbor.
Tél. +1 631 808 3401.

www.harborbookssgh.com

Tripoli Gallery

A discerning collection of artwork.

— 30 Jobs Lane, Southampton.
Tél. +1 631 377 3715

— 87 Newton Lane, East Hampton.
Tél. +1 631 324 0149.

www.tripoligallery.com

Harper’s Books

A fine art selection at this shop that shares premises with the Tripoli Gallery.

87 Newton Lane, East Hampton.
Tél. +1 631 324 1131.

www.harpersbooks.com

À faire

Jitney Bus

New Yorkers leave their car at their house and use the Jitney buses, which run from village to village at all hours, even all the way to JFK.

Overview
Overview
Address Book

Going There

www.airfrance.com

Flight frequency

Every week, AIR FRANCE has:
— 27 fights to New York-JFK from CDG, six fights to New York-JFK from Orly, and seven fights on a code-share basis with SkyTeam member Delta.
— 5 fights to New York-Newark on a codeshare basis with SkyTeam member Delta.

Every week, KLM has 14 fights to New York-JFK from Amsterdam

Arrival airports

— New York-JFK (hub de Delta).
À 19 km au sud-est.
Tél. +1 718 244 4444.

— New York-Newark.
À 24 km au sud-ouest.
Tél. +1 973 961 6000.

AIR FRANCE KLM offices

Aux aéroports.

Bookings

— Depuis la France :
Tél. 3654.
www.airfrance.com

— Depuis les États-Unis :
Tél. +1 800 237 2747.

Car rental

Hertz, à l’aéroport de New York-JFK.
Tél. +1 718 656 7600.
www.aifrance.fr/cars

Further reading

Est américain Lonely Planet.

Acknowledgments

Amy et Ronald Guttman ; Nixon Belltran
et Nicholas Coblence ; Antonella Bertello.

© Parko Polo / Central Illustration Agency. Carte illustrative, non contractuelle Map for illustration purposes only